caryn franklin

One of the many legacies left by Queen Elizabeth II shows how clothing can bring nations together. Britain’s longest-reigning monarch has been captured in her movements by lensmen and women’s armies throughout her 70-year reign, demonstrating her innate and fine-tuned understanding of visual branding. I was.

The value of fashion and image-making was previously explored by Elizabeth’s father, King George VI, with positive results. In a mission to regain public trust after her brother Edward VIII abdicated to marry her twice-divorced American Wallis Simpson, he invited the couturier Norman . Hartnell scoured his collection of Buckingham Palace art for inspiration. While the sophisticated Simpson wore the latest fashions, King ordered his wife and daughters gowns that emphasized the traditions of the Victorian era and the resulting stability.

The accession of Queen Elizabeth II to the throne after her father’s death in 1952 created a need to calm the nation down again. A charming and charismatic royal, Elizabeth’s sights are enhanced with the gravity and authority that ensure politicians, international heads of state, and long-game subjects she’s intended.

According to notes from the Royal Collection Trust, Hartnell submitted nine different designs for his coronation gown, with the young queen choosing an eighth dress, embroidered with waves bordered with pearls, diamante and gold trumpet beads. It was decorated with layers of

With a masterstroke of political know-how and world coverage against her, Elizabeth curated the best red carpet moments of all. It is said to be her own words for

This monarch quickly learned the power of clothing and outfits to avoid fashion novelty, trading short-lived trends and loudly-claimed silhouette gimmicks for deliberate announcements whenever they appeared. In fact, Elizabeth never missed an opportunity to convey authenticity, stability and a strong message to her audience.

Of course, there were fashion top notes for daywear, but they were brought in as a climax. Archive photos from her reign show decades-long trends easily unfolding, such as the cinched waist of the ’50s. 60’s short skirts, sleeveless dresses and her pillbox hat. And 70’s turbans and bold prints. And who could forget the power dressing of the 80’s high-octane Queen?

In her later years, Elizabeth established herself as the master of frock coats, dresses and matching hats in bold colors such as purple, orange, red and fuchsia. Her beige color was rarely appreciated due to her warmth and friendliness and her need to be easily spotted in a crowd with her small stature.

In her memoirs, Hardy Amys, another royal dressmaker, sums up the timeless quality required in royal attire: Style has a heart and respects the past. Chic, on the other hand, is ruthless and lives entirely for the present. “

Style takes a lot of control, too, and working with her trusted personal assistant and wardrobe curator Angela Kelly, Elizabeth created a manifesto for career-wear success. Test driven to reduce rustling and wrinkle resistance, weighted hemline to prevent gusts of wind from playing a trick. There were even removable underarm pads in. Clothing for international travel was designed to subtly complement the customs and culture of the host country.

The white gloves are always Cornelia James’s, sometimes changed several times a day, and the hat with a matching hat pin is either the highly popular Rain or Anello & David mid-heel shoes (broken by staff). and regularly repaired). It’s all topped off with Lohner’s moderately sized, familiar leather bag.

Stewart Parvin, who has been designing for the Queen since 2000, told The Times in 2012. “If she was going to meet President Obama, she wouldn’t wear the same dress.”

But there will also be frivolity. For example, at her performance at Royal Her Variety in November 1999, Elizabeth wore a multicolored sequined clown bodice and sleeves in a bold yellow skirt that thrilled her paparazzi. . And there was her green ensemble of shrill limes she wore to appear on the balcony at her Trooping the Color parade to mark her 90th birthday.

Personally, Elizabeth, a jockey and racehorse owner, preferred neutral shades. Tweed, boots and waterproofs are paired with her signature Silk Her Triangle scarf. While at Balmoral Castle in Scotland for her family vacations and official functions, the Queen proudly wore her Balmoral tartan, designed by her great-great-grandfather, Prince Albert.

To know that denim wasn’t the fabric the Queen entertained is to know that this was a woman who seemed to never take a break from the ongoing nonverbal conversation with her subjects: Relief A chat for those in need, a statement for those who sought her authority, and for all those who wished to connect with the Crowned Lady on a human level.

This deliberate broadcast of the benefits of reign, born of subtle advances rather than dramatic changes to shock and destabilization, can be considered a virtuoso performance in public – and this monarch I definitely had a hard time telling the younger members of her clan.

Above: Queen Elizabeth and Anna Wintour in the front row of Richard Quinn’s fashion show during London Fashion Week 2018.

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